Koine gets a two for cleanliness, actually. Someone pissed all over the floor in not one but TWO of the women's room stalls. NASTY.

Went to Amalfi yesterday, which was rather a letdown in the "beautiful beaches" department, but the views were fantastic. Crystal blue-green water, you could see down for at least ten feet. It was bloody cold though, because we managed to find the freshwater melt stream to swim next to. Aside from freezing for a while, and paying WAY too much to try the fresh lemon gelato (fabulous, by the by, they make it from the lemons grown outside the city!) we had a good time. Tired and a little sore of foot, we took the crazy bus back.

Let me describe this bus ride for you: terrifying and fun at the same time, like a roller coaster. A full size bus filled with people, making its way along the coastline on roads hardly big enough for two cars abreast in places. At each sharp curve and hairpin turn the bus slowed and honked, trying to warn oncoming traffic to give way, but there were several idiots willing to chance their lives, and cars, to go up against the bus. I was seated next to the window on the wall side, so on any given moment I could have, if the windows rolled down, touched the wall only a few inches from my face. The other side is a sheer drop into the ocean, but gorgeous views to be certain.

All along the way there were lemon groves, just private family groves, tiny towns and overly expensive restaurants overlooking the bluffs and ocean. You could see the whole Bay of Naples from the top of the mountains. Amalfi, while being a tourist rip-off, is quite beautiful. I reccomend, for any backpacker especially, to give Amalfi about four hours and then go. Not worth staying the night, nor would I recommend the restaurants if you want to eat for less than thirty euro a person.

Air and I are off to Formia by train, then to Gaeta by bus. We'll be meeting up with C. and his girlfriend, T. Home cooked meals and the ability to see the ocean out of the windows more than makes up for couch and floor sleeping for a few days.

Ciao tutti, and remember: if anything goes weird, if buses run late, if the shops close at seven, that's Italy for you.